In a twist of oceanographical fate, a five metre swell with an 18 second period surged over one of the world's most beautiful big wave reefs. Twiggy Baker, John John Florence, Albee Layer, Frank Solomon, Mike Schlebach, Andy Marr, Simon Lowe and others were there to harvest the stoke.

Huge thanks to Steve Benjamin from

Animal Ocean

for taking me out there!

Check out the video I filmed and edited